I was due at the dive shop for 8.30 ready for quite a few hours of studying and theory tests. I had a rather bland breakfast at the shop; bread and jam, before lazilly getting a moto to the dive shop. I thought it'd save me a bit of time, and if I happened to be sleeping okay then it would give me a bit more of a lie in.
My instructor for the course was a French guy called Sebastion, who pronounced 'bubbles' in a really adorable way, like on Finding Nemo!
I spent quite a while watching a DVD which basically was a lazier version of reading the book, but it helped send home the important messages that the book was saying. After reading and watching, I had 5 short practice tests to do, which I did pretty well on, and then after lunch, we went over the answers, before I was given another official test, which I got about 90% on, and then the 'final exam' where I was rather chuffed at scoring 96% whoo!
I had a headache by the end, as there was a lot to take in, especially the order of which you should prioritise for going up to the surface should you run out of air; something which I wasn't very good at remembering the order of.
(to be continued)
Monday, 27 July 2009
Sunday, 26 July 2009
Sihanoukville (islands) - 25th July 2009
I had to be at the dive centre by 7.15am, so after enjoying the pink dragonfruit, I left my luggage at the hotel, and got a moto there. We set off shortly after in their customised, double the size tuk tuk, which seemed to get some approving smiles from the locals. On arrival at the boat, we were offered breakfast where I just ate a banana, before going to the top deck to lie down horizontally in the hope that I wouldn't be sick. Thankfully I survived, and after about 2.5 hours, we arrived at the island. It looked very peaceful and calm.
(to be continued)
(to be continued)
Sihanoukville - 26th August 2009
I am completely exhausted. I don't think I've slept the whole night through without actively being conscious in my dreams, for the last week. I slept on the island last night, where I went to sleep quite early listening to the sounds of the waves and the sea rushing in and out of the shore. It was relaxing, and I also had the pleasure of listening to some music that was playing in the social area until about 1 or 2am. I had gone to bed around 8pm, drastically early, but I couldn't keep my eyes open anymore.
I was up at 6am, and I read my book and had breakfast until my instructor and his Dive Master girlfriend woke at around 8am. I was making good progress through my book which was very enjoyable and relaxing, although I was feeling a bit sick with worry about going on the boat again today.
We started off our day with a dive from the shore. It was good, the visability was clearer than usual and we saw more fish than the previous day. We managed to spot a starfish, lots of large pretty fish, some sea-urchins and some other stranger looking fish. I was told to avoid anything that looked too beautiful or too ugly or wasn't scared of me, as it meant they were usually some kind of threat to me if I interferred with them, but most things looked beautiful to me! So I avoided being too close to most things. We went over a few of the skills that I'd learnt the day before, which I managed to successfully complete.
We did a couple more dives, with lunch in the middle; a risotto with tasty vegetables. The dives we were taken out on the boat to the location and I was very thankful for not being sick. I think lying down most of the time helped greatly. I was now very comfortable with attaching all the gear to the tank, and then to me, but walking around on a wobbly boat to the side where I could then fall backwards into the water, was more of a challenge.
By the end of the final dive for the day, I had some scratches on my leg from where I had accidentally grazed it on some coral, and then my toe was blistered from the fin, although it wasn't too painful.
It was quite good fun when there was a lack of visability; I could see all the little bits of coral/sediments moving towards me with the tide, and then I could focus back on the diver I was following. Sometimes it felt like a game like on tv, although there wasn't anything to dodge other than making sure I was neutrally buoyant at all times, and not kicking anyone or anything, and not being kicked by anyone.
At one time I lost them slightly, so after looking around for the required minute I popped up and saw their fins, so was able to get back to them again. I thought it was maybe some kind of test to see if I'd panic or not, but I don't think it had been.
My ears equilibriated very well, but by the end of the final dive my throat was really dry and sore. I think I must not have been drinking enough.
We went back to Sihanoukville on the boat, after a quick shower, and then to the office, by the tuk tuk driven by Sebastion, my instructor. He said it was his first time driving the tuk tuk, and it might have been true, he seemed to be going rather speedily, and on reversing he seemed to stutter a bit. We made it back to the office in one piece, where I got my certificate printed out, and my details were entered online so my official diving card would arrive eventually in the post.
I then popped into an internet cafe where I did my best to recouperate with a drink, although I still felt like I was bobbing up and down on the water.
I was up at 6am, and I read my book and had breakfast until my instructor and his Dive Master girlfriend woke at around 8am. I was making good progress through my book which was very enjoyable and relaxing, although I was feeling a bit sick with worry about going on the boat again today.
We started off our day with a dive from the shore. It was good, the visability was clearer than usual and we saw more fish than the previous day. We managed to spot a starfish, lots of large pretty fish, some sea-urchins and some other stranger looking fish. I was told to avoid anything that looked too beautiful or too ugly or wasn't scared of me, as it meant they were usually some kind of threat to me if I interferred with them, but most things looked beautiful to me! So I avoided being too close to most things. We went over a few of the skills that I'd learnt the day before, which I managed to successfully complete.
We did a couple more dives, with lunch in the middle; a risotto with tasty vegetables. The dives we were taken out on the boat to the location and I was very thankful for not being sick. I think lying down most of the time helped greatly. I was now very comfortable with attaching all the gear to the tank, and then to me, but walking around on a wobbly boat to the side where I could then fall backwards into the water, was more of a challenge.
By the end of the final dive for the day, I had some scratches on my leg from where I had accidentally grazed it on some coral, and then my toe was blistered from the fin, although it wasn't too painful.
It was quite good fun when there was a lack of visability; I could see all the little bits of coral/sediments moving towards me with the tide, and then I could focus back on the diver I was following. Sometimes it felt like a game like on tv, although there wasn't anything to dodge other than making sure I was neutrally buoyant at all times, and not kicking anyone or anything, and not being kicked by anyone.
At one time I lost them slightly, so after looking around for the required minute I popped up and saw their fins, so was able to get back to them again. I thought it was maybe some kind of test to see if I'd panic or not, but I don't think it had been.
My ears equilibriated very well, but by the end of the final dive my throat was really dry and sore. I think I must not have been drinking enough.
We went back to Sihanoukville on the boat, after a quick shower, and then to the office, by the tuk tuk driven by Sebastion, my instructor. He said it was his first time driving the tuk tuk, and it might have been true, he seemed to be going rather speedily, and on reversing he seemed to stutter a bit. We made it back to the office in one piece, where I got my certificate printed out, and my details were entered online so my official diving card would arrive eventually in the post.
I then popped into an internet cafe where I did my best to recouperate with a drink, although I still felt like I was bobbing up and down on the water.
Wednesday, 22 July 2009
Sihanoukville - 23rd July 2009
Yet another early morning, and to the sound of the heaven's opening, or as my tuk tuk driver said a few days ago 'raining cats and dogs!'
I had a lovely hot shower, my first in quite a long time; maybe it was worth paying the extra $3 for such privaledge? or maybe not.
I couldn't be bothered doing much today, so decided on a very lazy catch up online, a coffee on the go for breakfast, in the form of a can and bought a newspaper to catch up on the news. The rain had stopped so it made a fairly pleasant morning. Unfortunatly the stupid internet cafe was being dodgy and the computer, although having faster internet than most places, wasn't letting me upload photos.
I bought a couple of books to read to keep me entertained, and then headed towards the beach with guidebook in hand. For some reason I had eye contact with someone I was about to pass on the pavement for slightly too long, possibly as the man looked foreign but very tanned and he was topless which I thought was maybe not appropriate, but then who am I to judge.
The man initiated conversation with me, saying I should ditch the guidebook and see Cambodia and not a bunch of English people. We got talking and he offered to walk with me for a bit and show me some of 'Cambodia'. He said he had been living in Cambodia for two years now but wouldn't actually tell me what he did. He said he now considered it his home though.
We had some 'real coffee' which was just as really as any other coffee that I'd had, and he had some donuts off a lady who was carrying them on her head as she passed, and also some fresh yoghurt from a guesthouse that made it. He was talking Cambodian to the locals and pointing out various houses he was interested in buying or renting for not very much per month or year, but with beautiful views of the sea.
I 'dropped' him off at his hotel, and then wandered back down to the beach. I checked out some scuba diving places, which seemed quite a reasonable price, before having some lunch; a vege-burger and a coffee. I had a short walk on the beach, whilst pondering over whether I should do the diving or not. I happened to meet the Austrian couple that I'd met the previous day on the bus to Sihanoukville. We had a short chat, and I mentioned that I was thinking about doing the diving, they said I should go for it as I would probably enjoy it.
I headed back towards the street with all the diving shops on, and after thinking about how much money I had. I had a bit of a fright thinking that I wouldn't be able to get any money put in my account, but thankfully I managed to get all financial problems sorted, and I booked the scuba diving. I was really quite excited, although quite nervous about all the boat trips we'd be making.
Tomorrow however was just a day full of theory. I was given a book, from which I had to read up a rather large 3 chapters. It was quite interesting, and a lot related to Physiology and Physics and some Geography too, in the form of the weather and tides.
By this time it was now early evening, so after a few stints on the internet, I headed back to my hotel to study. I was exhausted and so didn't manage to get out to get any dinner. I had a sleepless night which was annoying and I was full of aches and pains from my back during the night, probably not helping the matter.
I had a lovely hot shower, my first in quite a long time; maybe it was worth paying the extra $3 for such privaledge? or maybe not.
I couldn't be bothered doing much today, so decided on a very lazy catch up online, a coffee on the go for breakfast, in the form of a can and bought a newspaper to catch up on the news. The rain had stopped so it made a fairly pleasant morning. Unfortunatly the stupid internet cafe was being dodgy and the computer, although having faster internet than most places, wasn't letting me upload photos.
I bought a couple of books to read to keep me entertained, and then headed towards the beach with guidebook in hand. For some reason I had eye contact with someone I was about to pass on the pavement for slightly too long, possibly as the man looked foreign but very tanned and he was topless which I thought was maybe not appropriate, but then who am I to judge.
The man initiated conversation with me, saying I should ditch the guidebook and see Cambodia and not a bunch of English people. We got talking and he offered to walk with me for a bit and show me some of 'Cambodia'. He said he had been living in Cambodia for two years now but wouldn't actually tell me what he did. He said he now considered it his home though.
We had some 'real coffee' which was just as really as any other coffee that I'd had, and he had some donuts off a lady who was carrying them on her head as she passed, and also some fresh yoghurt from a guesthouse that made it. He was talking Cambodian to the locals and pointing out various houses he was interested in buying or renting for not very much per month or year, but with beautiful views of the sea.
I 'dropped' him off at his hotel, and then wandered back down to the beach. I checked out some scuba diving places, which seemed quite a reasonable price, before having some lunch; a vege-burger and a coffee. I had a short walk on the beach, whilst pondering over whether I should do the diving or not. I happened to meet the Austrian couple that I'd met the previous day on the bus to Sihanoukville. We had a short chat, and I mentioned that I was thinking about doing the diving, they said I should go for it as I would probably enjoy it.
I headed back towards the street with all the diving shops on, and after thinking about how much money I had. I had a bit of a fright thinking that I wouldn't be able to get any money put in my account, but thankfully I managed to get all financial problems sorted, and I booked the scuba diving. I was really quite excited, although quite nervous about all the boat trips we'd be making.
Tomorrow however was just a day full of theory. I was given a book, from which I had to read up a rather large 3 chapters. It was quite interesting, and a lot related to Physiology and Physics and some Geography too, in the form of the weather and tides.
By this time it was now early evening, so after a few stints on the internet, I headed back to my hotel to study. I was exhausted and so didn't manage to get out to get any dinner. I had a sleepless night which was annoying and I was full of aches and pains from my back during the night, probably not helping the matter.
Battambang to Sihanoukville - 22nd July 2009
I had an early morning this morning. I seem to be waking up quite a lot in the night, so if I wake up within 30 minutes of when my alarm is set for I just get up anyway. Today I was due to leave for the bus station at 7.30, so allowed quite a bit of time for getting breakfast, although I'd just settled with a visit to the local bakery, and water to wash it down; at least it was cheap!
The minibus arrived to take me, and an Austrian couple to the bus station, where I had a coffee before boarding. We were able to, very briefly, enjoy the solar eclipse, looking through sunglasses for about a second, before we were blinded by the sun. When we got on to the bus, a local had taken out a mask used to shield the eyes of those using laser type machinary.
The bus was enormous; a double decker, but with the lower deck only accomodating the driver, our luggage, and a rather crampt toilet!
The air conditioned bus is annoying as it stops me sweating profusely, so I am left needing the toilet what seems like copious amounts! Yet again I live up to my nickname Little Miss Small Bladder...
At least I get to enjoy the toilet on the bus! It's a strange room, you have to be a midget to get through the door; even I have to bend down, and on leaving I have bumped my head several times. Whilst sitting (or hovering) on the loo, there is a very clear mirror opposite, so one can admire oneself whilst emptying out! And to add to this pleasure, you can even look at the window with a clear view of all the houses and people you pass! I'm not quite sure if this view outwards is reciprocated so people can see inwards; I hope not!
The journey was pleasant. We stopped once before arriving at Phnom Penh, at a small cafe which had wonderful large wooden carvings.
We arrived in good time at Phnom Penh, where I had time for my second coffee of the day before boarding a 'same same but different' bus to take us to Sihanoukville. I was quite glad that the bus operators dealt with our luggage; carrying it on and off for us, as it saved me attempting to lift my bag, which is quite often a struggle!
At our first stop from this bus, I had another coffee! and got asked by lots of young locals to buy their sweet coconut cakes. The locals here are a lot more pleasant then in Siem Reap, just as the boy did on my tour up a hill on my full-day of tuk tuk-ing, these girls also could speak French, and tried to converse with me in French for a while! The boy from the tuk-tuk day had managed to say Hello, How are you? in about 7 different languages, which impressed me greatly! He even had good pronounciation (for the ones I knew what they should sound like).
In this cafe, there was a really cute scruffy dog lying under a table just sleeping, then on my way to the toilet, I offered my hand to a dog who had looked friendly. My hand was a 35 centemetres away, but the dog obviously took my
offering the wrong way (or had rabies or was psychotic), as he gave me a warning snap very close to my hand so that slobbers made it onto my hand. I then avoided all dogs from this point onwards!
It was raining quite heavily by this point which was annoying, as the place looked pretty dreary.
We arrived on time, yay! at Sihanoukville, where we were greeted by lots of tuk tuks and moto drivers. I had wanted to walk, as on the map my accomodation hadn't looked that far away. I felt really pestered by the drivers, and eventually I gave in, and with my rucksack resting on the front of the motorbike, cuddled by the driver, we set off. I was unsure whether the slightly dodgy looking rider would actually take me to the guesthouse I'd wanted, as he seemed to be trying to make me want to go elsewhere, but I remained firm, and thankfully I arrived safely where I wanted to go.
I checked in to the ant-free room (yay again!) and then went off in search of dinner. The Holy Cow restaurant, named after a holy cow who cured someone of some illness by licking them, was written up very nicely in the Lonely Planet and advertised as having vegan options, which it did.
On the way, I was walking along the not very well lit roads, and was trying to cross the road when two dogs from the house I was standing in front up came up and started growling at me. I was terrified... I obviously must be offending all these dogs in some way! I decided that I'd walk on the other side of the road on the way back!
I enjoyed a cottage pie, a lovely fruit shake, and an amazing chocolate cake with ice cream and sauce! Amazing!!
I passed an English teaching school on the way back, where the kids were just being let out, and a white teacher was leaving, and she hi-fived one of the kids! All the kids were crowding round her saying 'teacher, teacher...''
I made it back to the hotel okay, although I was pretty scared being out in the dark, despite it only being half seven! The guidebook seems to suggest Sihanoukville is one of the worst places to be for crime, or at least has more highly publishised crimes out here.
It was really annoying that the hotel didn't have internet, and I didn't want to be too late back at the hotel so decided to head 'home' instead of searching for an internet cafe. I then lazed about watching TV and reading. I had planned on renting a DVD player and watching some of the DVDs I'd bought on the cheap, but unfortunatly all were rented out! Still it was an early night, although my sleep was plagued with the challenge of escaping from an earthquake (in my dreams), which was a bit surreal and annoying.
The minibus arrived to take me, and an Austrian couple to the bus station, where I had a coffee before boarding. We were able to, very briefly, enjoy the solar eclipse, looking through sunglasses for about a second, before we were blinded by the sun. When we got on to the bus, a local had taken out a mask used to shield the eyes of those using laser type machinary.
The bus was enormous; a double decker, but with the lower deck only accomodating the driver, our luggage, and a rather crampt toilet!
The air conditioned bus is annoying as it stops me sweating profusely, so I am left needing the toilet what seems like copious amounts! Yet again I live up to my nickname Little Miss Small Bladder...
At least I get to enjoy the toilet on the bus! It's a strange room, you have to be a midget to get through the door; even I have to bend down, and on leaving I have bumped my head several times. Whilst sitting (or hovering) on the loo, there is a very clear mirror opposite, so one can admire oneself whilst emptying out! And to add to this pleasure, you can even look at the window with a clear view of all the houses and people you pass! I'm not quite sure if this view outwards is reciprocated so people can see inwards; I hope not!
The journey was pleasant. We stopped once before arriving at Phnom Penh, at a small cafe which had wonderful large wooden carvings.
We arrived in good time at Phnom Penh, where I had time for my second coffee of the day before boarding a 'same same but different' bus to take us to Sihanoukville. I was quite glad that the bus operators dealt with our luggage; carrying it on and off for us, as it saved me attempting to lift my bag, which is quite often a struggle!
At our first stop from this bus, I had another coffee! and got asked by lots of young locals to buy their sweet coconut cakes. The locals here are a lot more pleasant then in Siem Reap, just as the boy did on my tour up a hill on my full-day of tuk tuk-ing, these girls also could speak French, and tried to converse with me in French for a while! The boy from the tuk-tuk day had managed to say Hello, How are you? in about 7 different languages, which impressed me greatly! He even had good pronounciation (for the ones I knew what they should sound like).
In this cafe, there was a really cute scruffy dog lying under a table just sleeping, then on my way to the toilet, I offered my hand to a dog who had looked friendly. My hand was a 35 centemetres away, but the dog obviously took my
offering the wrong way (or had rabies or was psychotic), as he gave me a warning snap very close to my hand so that slobbers made it onto my hand. I then avoided all dogs from this point onwards!
It was raining quite heavily by this point which was annoying, as the place looked pretty dreary.
We arrived on time, yay! at Sihanoukville, where we were greeted by lots of tuk tuks and moto drivers. I had wanted to walk, as on the map my accomodation hadn't looked that far away. I felt really pestered by the drivers, and eventually I gave in, and with my rucksack resting on the front of the motorbike, cuddled by the driver, we set off. I was unsure whether the slightly dodgy looking rider would actually take me to the guesthouse I'd wanted, as he seemed to be trying to make me want to go elsewhere, but I remained firm, and thankfully I arrived safely where I wanted to go.
I checked in to the ant-free room (yay again!) and then went off in search of dinner. The Holy Cow restaurant, named after a holy cow who cured someone of some illness by licking them, was written up very nicely in the Lonely Planet and advertised as having vegan options, which it did.
On the way, I was walking along the not very well lit roads, and was trying to cross the road when two dogs from the house I was standing in front up came up and started growling at me. I was terrified... I obviously must be offending all these dogs in some way! I decided that I'd walk on the other side of the road on the way back!
I enjoyed a cottage pie, a lovely fruit shake, and an amazing chocolate cake with ice cream and sauce! Amazing!!
I passed an English teaching school on the way back, where the kids were just being let out, and a white teacher was leaving, and she hi-fived one of the kids! All the kids were crowding round her saying 'teacher, teacher...''
I made it back to the hotel okay, although I was pretty scared being out in the dark, despite it only being half seven! The guidebook seems to suggest Sihanoukville is one of the worst places to be for crime, or at least has more highly publishised crimes out here.
It was really annoying that the hotel didn't have internet, and I didn't want to be too late back at the hotel so decided to head 'home' instead of searching for an internet cafe. I then lazed about watching TV and reading. I had planned on renting a DVD player and watching some of the DVDs I'd bought on the cheap, but unfortunatly all were rented out! Still it was an early night, although my sleep was plagued with the challenge of escaping from an earthquake (in my dreams), which was a bit surreal and annoying.
Tuesday, 21 July 2009
Battambang - 21st July 2009
I woke up pretty early, and decided to get up anyway, as I had to have breakfast and be down by the front of the hotel by 7.30am ready for my tuk tuk tour of all of Battambang with my driver Kim (male).
At 7am I went in search of breakfast, which I found in the form of a friendly cafe, with a lovable rat who ran across the floor whilst I was eating; how cute!! I enjoyed a delicious breakfast, which took quite a while to prepare, leaving me 10 minutes late to meet Kim. Thankfully he was very graceful and forgiving, definetly unlike the majority of men, and we set off for our long day.
We passed some large pottery pots, which I think are supposed to be quite common or famous in this area. Also there was a selection of army members doing some kind of drill. Later on we also passed a water park, although I'm not sure how busy it was, it sounded rather quiet.
A funny sight passed us, as from the front I saw a motorbike carrying some produce made of a hay like material, but from behind, like a scene out of The Aristocats, was a moving haystack! It made me giggle. Another thing that I find adorable is little girls who smile at you when you smile at them, forcing you to smile even more, they are so adorable!!
We passed a field full of lotus flowers, a symbol of Buddhism. They are incredibly beautiful!
We arrived at the first visit of the day; Phnom Sampeau. I was greeted by a very happy young boy, with good English who offered to be my guide up the hill. It was a long and tiring walk up the hill. The road had been recently 'redone' or at least the foundations for the new road had, so it was incredibly bumpy and rough on the feet. It was in the same style as the re-laying of the roads we'd done in the National Parks of Costa Rica. The boy was 13, and spoke good English. He spends $5 a month on being taught for an hour each evening and his favourite subject is Geography. He would usually be charged more than that, but as he is so good at English, he is able to help other students with their pronounciation. He funds his studies, and that of his brother and general livings costs of the family, by his tour guide job. All his family work on the rice fields which pays very poorly. The temple was plainer than most, but the view from the top was incredible. Much better than the view I'd been disappointed by in Vietnam, and I sweated less on this walk! This temple had been used as a prison, or a waiting room for the killing cave. I seemed to be giving a way a lot of money up here, as not only did I give to some fund outside the temple, but an ancient cleaner lady who was hanging about begging in the cave I also gave some money too; I'll blame my generousity on the heat!
At 7am I went in search of breakfast, which I found in the form of a friendly cafe, with a lovable rat who ran across the floor whilst I was eating; how cute!! I enjoyed a delicious breakfast, which took quite a while to prepare, leaving me 10 minutes late to meet Kim. Thankfully he was very graceful and forgiving, definetly unlike the majority of men, and we set off for our long day.
We passed some large pottery pots, which I think are supposed to be quite common or famous in this area. Also there was a selection of army members doing some kind of drill. Later on we also passed a water park, although I'm not sure how busy it was, it sounded rather quiet.
A funny sight passed us, as from the front I saw a motorbike carrying some produce made of a hay like material, but from behind, like a scene out of The Aristocats, was a moving haystack! It made me giggle. Another thing that I find adorable is little girls who smile at you when you smile at them, forcing you to smile even more, they are so adorable!!
We passed a field full of lotus flowers, a symbol of Buddhism. They are incredibly beautiful!
We arrived at the first visit of the day; Phnom Sampeau. I was greeted by a very happy young boy, with good English who offered to be my guide up the hill. It was a long and tiring walk up the hill. The road had been recently 'redone' or at least the foundations for the new road had, so it was incredibly bumpy and rough on the feet. It was in the same style as the re-laying of the roads we'd done in the National Parks of Costa Rica. The boy was 13, and spoke good English. He spends $5 a month on being taught for an hour each evening and his favourite subject is Geography. He would usually be charged more than that, but as he is so good at English, he is able to help other students with their pronounciation. He funds his studies, and that of his brother and general livings costs of the family, by his tour guide job. All his family work on the rice fields which pays very poorly. The temple was plainer than most, but the view from the top was incredible. Much better than the view I'd been disappointed by in Vietnam, and I sweated less on this walk! This temple had been used as a prison, or a waiting room for the killing cave. I seemed to be giving a way a lot of money up here, as not only did I give to some fund outside the temple, but an ancient cleaner lady who was hanging about begging in the cave I also gave some money too; I'll blame my generousity on the heat!
My joyful tourguide had gone down to the cave by sliding down the banister, whilst I took the more appropriate stairs. The killing cave is where the Khmer Rouge had got people to plunge so many metres to their death into this cave. It was a grim sight, and inside was the remains of many skulls and other bones from the seventys. A short walk away was a few Buddha statues, where we stopped for another breather. The boy enquired about whether I had an mp3 player or not, and I said I did, he wanted to see it, so I took it out and let him play on it whilst I took some photos of butterflies etc. We then saw a more impressive temple, with an even better view, with more people asking for donations etc, which I managed to resist!
The way down involved lots of steps, but wasn't too painful. I could see the main road which headed back to Battambang, and also the boy pointed out which school he goes to. He seemed to cough quite a bit, and after learning that 65% of all Cambodians have tb, I'm guessing he must be one of them!
At the bottom, I bought a drink from his aunts shop, where he lives away from his parents. I was then joined by lots of wild monkeys! I got quite excited, and whipped out my camera, and Kim was able to get some bananas for me to feed to them. He fed most of them whilst I took the photos, and whilst I was trying to give the banana to the smaller baby which hadn't managed to eat any banana yet, another larger and rather rude monkey grabbed the banana out my hand! Cheeky thing! Some of the smaller female monkeys had quite a few sores on their body from the male monkey.
It then started to tip it down, so I was quite thankful I was in the tuk tuk. We put the raincovers down at the sides, and Kim took off his shirt (he was wearing t-shirt underneath) and put on his poncho, a dashing white with pink-dots one!
The ride was very bumpy, so bumpy in fact that at one point, none of my body was in contact with the tuk tuk! I'd done a vertical take off! It didn't help with the period pain either was which beginning to be a pain!
Next stop was to Phnom Banan. It was still raining at this point so we hung out in the local cafe swinging in hammocks which was fun! I needed the loo, so asked if I could use the loo. I was told that it could only be used for number 1s (!) and so I preceeded to go through the 'kitchen' to the toilet, which was a curtain being held up by bamboo, a slight dip in the ground leading down to a river somewhere, and on top of the mud were two wooden slabs for our feet! I slipped, but thankfully not too severely, as I didn't fall in! Thank heavens!
I had some lunch; rice and vegetables, in the company of a pig! and by the time I had finished, the rain had stopped, so I embarked up the 300 odd steps to the top. I was accompanied by a boy who spoke a bit of English, and who kept on fanning me! When I was about to collapse in a heap, he would take my arm and lift me up! I made it to the top, and gave the boy some money. I'm pretty sure that he was expecting it, but he looked at me strangely when I did, so maybe he was just being nice after all!
I wandered around. The place looked a bit delapdated. There was a nice view, and the shapes were quite interesting. It was built shortly before Angkor Wat, and I think it was instructed by the same king or something. There were lots of the 6-headed snake figures along the handrails for the steps etc, as well as lions.
We got back on the road, and after following a calf along the road for a bit, the calf decided to swerve in front of us, and somehow I missed what happened, as my heart lept into my mouth, and I looked behind to see the calf running off down another path. I really thought we were certain to hit the poor calf, but I guess she must have been a quick turner.
We stopped again later on as my driver was pointing out papaya being grown and also some pink dragon fruit (the insides being pink rather than the typical white). We bought some, and oh my heavens! They were delicious!! I have never tasted something so naturally beautiful, that was so colourful, in my life!
Back on the road, we were admiring another building and a local lady gave me a couple of green oranges! (Totally different to the usual oranges!), which I tried peeling initally, before learning that you eat the outside bit and the avoid the inner seeds! Whoops! It was kind of her though.
We passed a wedding, and I was curious to have a wee peek, so I bowed Khmer style to the people and they waved me in and then the guys who were dancing around waved me in, and I got dragged in (although I was quite keen to have a go!) in a Bollywood style dance around the dancefloor! It was good fun and really great to be included in something so random! They even got their official photographer to come and take some photos with me dancing! I was surprised that it was just men dancing; I thought there must have been some official separation, although it turned out the girls were just shy! A few more got up to dance to join me whilst the photographer was taking some photos.
We had to head back to Battambang and then head south to visit the third of our three temples, this final one being Wat Ek Phnom. This one was a bit plain, and very ruined from when the war was on. It had some nice carvings though, and a couple of adorable cats, one with brown eyes which looked a bit unusual! I played with the lively kitten, whilst the black cat snoozed, before heading back down to enjoy a sugar cane juice which was delicious! Kim then told me more about his family, and what happened to them in the war. He'd lost some half siblings due to starvation, and uncles and aunts had died of the same thing. His parents survived it, and at the age of three, he went to a refugee camp in Thailand. He worked collecting lotus leaves to sell at the maket for several years, a very hard job which allowed leeches to attack him in the water. They use lotus leaves instead of plastic bags at the markets, to wrap up meat and vegetables etc.
We passed the Pepsi bottling plant which basically was just a run down factory, and then we stopped off to look at some fruit bats that were hanging (!) out in a tree.
We'd watched some fishermen for a while, using bamboo as the frame for their net, and then they bent right down into the water and swept upwards in an attempt to catch fish. It looked like tiring work, although I was told it's not their full time job, I think they just do it for the extra food.
Back in Battambang, we passed a factory that prepares and cooks up dogs (to eat). I had wanted to go and see it, but he said I probably wouldn't be able to as they'd already have prepared the dogs and now it would only be in 'on the plate' form.
We witnessed a tree being cut down, and falling into the river, which was fun to watch and pretty spectacular! Kim laughed out loud when viewing the collapse of the tree on my camera.
I paid up at the hotel, and sorted out my transport for the following day; a ten hour bus to Sihanoukville! as well as having a refreshing shower.
I returned to the place where I had enjoyed my breakfast that morning, and had an even more enjoyable dinner. I unfortunatly cannot recall the name of the restaurant, which is a shame as I had hoped to write in to the Lonely Planet for a recommendation. The staff were very polite, and the restaurant had only been open a couple of months, so they were still learning the ropes. They were guided by an Australian who was just helping them out with getting started up. They made an absolutely amazing fruit smoothie! I'm not sure what the fruit was, but it was heaven! Their vegetarian sweet and sour dish was superb as well.
There were slightly fewer ants on going to bed that night thankfully, although I still had some bad dreams.
Monday, 20 July 2009
Siem Reap to Battambang - 20th July 2009
I woke up pretty early this morning; 6.45am, and although I still had at least half an hour left in bed I decided to get up anyway, leaving me with more time on the internet. I threw on some clothes, as always, and went to breakfast, which was as delicious as always!
I checked out, bought some water and snacks for the bus, and gave my bike back (thankfully they didn't inspect it closely enough to see the dents, although they were pretty obvious!)
I then was on the internet for a while, making good progress with my blog, until 8.30am, when the hotel asked if I was ready to go. I presumed they meant the bus was here, but it was actually their minibus, which I was a bit annoyed at. Especially as when I got to the bus station, the bus was half an hour late, so we only set off at 9.30am. I spent the hour reading my book, which was almost as enjoyable as blogging.
The bus journey was rather comfortable, the road wasn't in too bad a shape and so we made good progress with time. The frustrating part of it was that the horn's speakers seemed to be pointing inwards to the inside of the bus rather than the outside, and so the high pitched booming noise deafened me everytime it was used, which, being in Cambodia, was very frequent as he used it everytime he saw anyone else on the road!
I tried drowning out the sound with my ipod, but to no avail. We stopped once, for a mans toilet stop, and then again, where as soon as everyone got out the bus rolled off again, making me panic! I got reassurance from another lone traveller, who said she just presumed they'd come back for us, so I felt relaxed in that I wasn't totally alone! There were lots of people trying to sell fruit, breads, and crickets! A random combination! When I eventually found the bus; it was parked across the road in a kind of bus park; I boarded, and was followed by a group of children merchants trying to sell me fruit. One boy asked me why I didn't want a mango, and on the spur of the moment I said it was because I didn't like sweet things. Somehow I don't quite think he believed me! But it was a good enough reason and he moved on to the next person.
I think my anger may have built up had it not been for the driver having such a sweet smile; typical!
I was surprised when we stopped again shortly after 1pm. I was getting a bit fed up with the stopping, especially as we'd set off late. Yet again, we were given no indication of how long we were stopping for, but word got around that we'd arrived in Battambang! I was very relieved and happy, although wasn't too keen on being swamped by tuk tuk drivers, although be it not so severe as in Siem Reap. I studying my map for a while, and although I had found that the cheap accomodation was not too far away, the tuk tuk man was only asking for half a dollar, and for it I thought it would save me a few mls of sweat, so I agreed!
On arriving I found the room to be pleasant, and then keen to get as much done as possible in my rather short time in Battambang, I plotted with my tuk tuk driver to see everything within the day and a half. We decided that after I had eaten something and relaxed a bit, we would set off to see the Bamboo train, and then the following day we would conquor various Phnoms and Wats.
I went off, on his recommendation, although later I found it to be in the Lonely planet also, to the White Rose cafe. I thought I'd eat the cheapest things on the menu which was chips and an iced coffee; for $2! Bargain! I enjoyed them and was waiting to pay the bill when a man appeared at my feet proding my thigh and begging for money. I said to him 'no' but he kept prodding me and being annoying. The man was rather rude, and after I ignored him and then got up to pay the bill, to hurry things along a bit, he got up and wandered down the street. I hate people who want something for nothing, and who go about it in a way that is unpleasant. Someone being nice, or friendly is so much nicer and more reward worthy than someone being rude. He really dampened my day.
Then less than 5 minutes later, a dog came up and barked in seriously scary manor and had his nose right up to my ankles, I really thought he was going to bit me. Thankfully he didn't, but it made me think that I should have just spent the day in my hotel.
I continued to walk around, and saw the old train station, where as promised, the clock was stuck at 8.02. I couldn't really be bothered walking around anymore, so I decided to pop into a few shops, one of which was to get some more earphones as one of my 'ears' has stopped working, which makes it impossible to hear on the buses. I also got a memory card reader as I didn't bring my connection out here, and I thought it was time to upload some photos.
I then popped into an internet cafe in the hope of uploading photos, although I couldn't get the machine to work, so then had to go back and get it checked, and it seemed to be working. Grh!
I was back in time to meet my tuk tuk driver, when I met a Danish girl who was interested in coming with me. Unfortunatly she seemed to have 'married' another tuk tuk driver who got angry at her wanting to not pay him to go there, when she could so easily have come with me. It was so frustrating. My tuk tuk driver said he couldn't take her as he was scared of the other tuk tuk driver. It all seemed really childish and stupid. We then met another two Danish girls who wanted to come, but out of principal the first Danish girl didn't want to mess about with tuk tuk drivers anymore. It was a bit of shame, but I'm sure they're the ones missing out as it was there last day in Battambang.
I felt even more down and generally annoyed, but eventually I cheered up as my tuk tuk driver was nice and I forgot about all the annoying things that had happened during the day. We waited beside the railway line, in the hope that others would come, making the journey less expensive. It took a while, in which time I tried learning some Khmer with the locals. After learning how to pronounce 'what is your name?' I'm pretty sure they started trying to teach me rude words or something, as they seemed to find something funny, maybe it was just my awful pronounciation!
I did however find out that Joy, when spoken in Scottish accent (thank god I don't have a Scottish accent!!) actually means 'fuck' (or similar type of swear word) in Khmer. That would have been an interesting one; 'Hello I'm fuck, What's your name?'
A couple of guys on a completely pink motorbike drove by, which made me smile, and when the guys smiled at me, I smiled back even more. It just looked so camp! They passed by again, and I asked, and was allowed to take a photo of them! Yay!
A train was approaching, and it had been for some time, but it travels slower than someone walking! So people were lying on the tracks, walking accross, and staying on their bamboo train until it was quite near! The French are investing in the railway and are going to be bringing high speed trains across, so soon there shall be no more bamboo trains.
The trains used to be moved by four or more people pushing sticks, sort of like they were skiing. Although now they are motorised. The track goes from Battambang to some smaller villages, usually for the transport of food and other materials.
Some French people arrived, who didn't speak much English. I managed to understand quite a bit of what they were saying which was quite cool! We all boarded the train. It was really good fun! I have never known such a noisey train, or one which runs on such a bendy track! It seemed to wiggle around quite a bit. There were lots of kids waving to us along the way, and there were chickens crossing the tracks, and then back again, they seemed to be a bit lost. Thankfully we didn't kill anyone! I was really glad I went.
On the way back, we passed several beautiful things. We passed the place where the important provence meetings take place; in a French Colonial building. I have no idea what the word colonial means; the driver asked me, and even though he and I both use the word, neither of us know the meaning! There were some Thai cannons outside, from when the Thai were in charge of Cambodia.
We then went to a statue in a park, that was a dragon and a (can't remember the name - 6 headed snake) - made out of the remains of lots of guns that had been kept illegally in villages, and when a certain agreement was signed to make the place safer, these guns were confiscated.
We then drove by some French Colonial buildings, the night market, the old market, and finally we were back at the hotel. With my guidebook in hand, I went in search of a couple of restaurants that it had mentioned. But despite following the map, and finding where they should have been; neither of the restaurants could be found.
Instead, a few doors away from my hotel, I went to the Lazy Gecko Cafe which was nice, and made me a very delicious fruit shake and then dinner. The rest of the evening was spent on the internet uploading photos, and listening to various music on the internet.
On arriving back at the hotel, on quite a dark night (I'm not surprised they warn lone females to stay clear of the streets at night!), I discovered tens of ants crawling all over my bed - great!
I took off the top sheet on which the ants were crawling, and threw it outside of my room. There still seemed to be ants wherever I looked, but at least they didn't have an unfair advantage on me in the bed! It took me ages to get to sleep, and I woke several times during the night. I'm not quite sure what was bothering me as I didn't have that much on my mind; maybe it was just my subconscious aware of all the ants.
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